Cartier Travel with Style in Mumbai: A Maharaja's delight
"We have seen a most horrific event in Mumbai and our hearts go out to all who suffered and were impacted directly or indirectly. But we also need to move on and not let these cowardly acts cow us down. So here is something to change the mood and hopefully spread some cheer." Bob Rupani, Executive Editor, Auto India.
I've chosen Bob Rupani's words to preface my snapshot of a memorable motoring event which recently took place in Mumbai, as I think he sums up feelings shared by everyone who attended- feelings brought sharply into focus as we stayed in the very same historic hotel which just weeks later was left devastated. But let's look back and give recognition to all those, especially our generous Indian hosts, who made this such a magical weekend and wish Mumbai and its people a speedy recovery.
Now this wasn't just any motoring event, but the inaugural Travel with Style concours d'elegance event hosted by a firm which knows a thing or two about style. Top society jeweler Cartier doesn't do anything by halves, so when I was asked to head a judging panel I wasn't expecting an invitation to any of the usual places, but when they announced they would be flying us to Mumbai...Needless to say, it didn't take me long to accept.
Left: Guests were pampered from the moment they arrived
Right: 'Travel with Style' was not an empty boast
And what an event it turned out to be. From the moment our jet touched down in India's largest city (population 20 million and growing) we were swept away by the dazzling colours, the faded colonial architecture overshadowed by the soaring modern structures, the magnificent temples, the scents ("exotic spices with a hint of carbon monoxide"), the warmth of the people and the climate, and the most of all, just the general buzz of life.
Fellow judges at this most exclusive of car gatherings included Nick Mason of Pink Floyd, Gordon Murray of McLaren Grand Prix fame, fellow designer Peter Stevens (who styled the F.1 road car), Hong Kong collector Sir Michael Kadoorie, veteran war photographer Don McCullen, TV producer Mark Stewart (Sir Jackie's son), cricketer-turned-politician Imran Khan, British collector and racer James Lindsay, the ever glamorous model (and closet petrolhead) Yasmin Le Bonand Prince Michael of Kent, the ever immaculate, vintage Bentley racing cousin of Queen Elizabeth. Keeping the whole show on the road, and the man whose fertile imagination dreamed up the concept in the first place, was conservationist and traveler Mark Shand, brother of the Duchess of Cornwall. Your humble correspondent was in good company...
Left: Judging was a relaxed affair- Alain de Cadenet compered
Right: Yasmin LeBon and the Jaguar SS100 which won the Ladies Prize
Wafted from the airport in a fleet of chauffeur driven Mercedes, one of the first things that struck us in India was the driving style. Taxis, most of which appear to be based on 50+ year old Fiat 1100s and none of which have a single undamaged panel, are not so much driven as piloted with a blind faith in fate (it's perhaps no coincidence that re-incarnation is a popular local belief). I didn't need to ask what the command 'Honk Me' adorning everyone's rear bumper signified: no driver seems to let more than ten seconds pass without leaning on his horn, which I learnt has various meanings ranging from 'Watch out' to 'I'm passing you' and 'I'm about to hit you' or simply 'Hello'. Add to this maelstrom pedestrians who seem to be playing a game of chicken (a 10cm gap between you and cars passing at full speed is deemed plenty) and it's a cross between gladiatorial sport and a Technicolour video game.
Our first stop and base for the weekend was the Taj Palace; Bombay's most famous hotel located right on the seafront but slightly oddly facing the city, not theIndian Ocean. It was commissioned in 1902 by a young, upcoming tycoon named Mr Tata (yes, that Mr Tata) after he was refused entry as a non-white to another luxury hotel. Legend has it that the original European architect handed over the plans to local builders and informed them he would be back from Europe in six months to check on progress. His reaction upon finding they had built the hotel backwards was apparently to jump off the roof...
Left: Mumbai's legendary Taj Palace Hotel was the judges' base
Right: Royal West India Turf Club provided the perfect backdrop
A short Mercedes ride later and Dashrat, our friendly driver in a crisp white uniform with hat and gloves to match, pulled up at the Royal West India Turf Clubwhere a red carpet stretched from the entrance into the heart of this most colonial of establishments, founded in 1880 and still the centre of horse racing in India. Amongst the many natural resources in which the country abounds, one is people, and I counted over 300 staff on hand to make sure entrants, guests and judges were looked after from the moment we set foot on Indian soil to the moment we left. Service in India is exemplary- it's rather like stepping back in time to the era ofRudyard Kipling's novels, and never more so than when surrounded by sixty of the most opulent vintage cars which Prince Manvendra Singh, one of India's leading motoring authorities, had pried out of largely hidden garages across the land which have never been visited by outsiders. Many belonged to Maharajas and most had been in their families from new: they don't really do 'second hand'. The vast majority were pre-war and most of these carried bespoke coachwork built to the order of their flamboyant and fabulously wealthy first owners.
Left: Cartier CEO Bernard Fornas with cricketer-turned-politican Imran Khan
Right: The Maharaja of Udaipur's Rolls-Royce 20HP, winner of the Classics Class
Most curious of these, perhaps, was an open 1930s Rolls-Royce with cut down bodywork and three rows of seats to transport the Maharaja's cricket team. But there were also supercharged Mercedes of the 1920s, a magnificent Daimler Double Six (the 12 cylinder rarity) built for King George V's planned visit in 1935 (he didn't come but the car did) and a lovely streamlined Phantom II Continental with rakish coachwork by top London firm Gurney Nutting. After India gained its independence in 1947 the power and wealth of the ruling classes was dramatically curtailed but they were still able to enjoy a lavish lifestyle; hence a trio of handsomeJaguar `XK120 roadsters on display (all sold new in India) and even a Mercedes-Benz 300SL Roadster which, rather than leading the boulevardier life of its western contemporaries, was raced all over India by the prince who bought it new and still owns it.
Most spectacular of all, though, and perhaps not surprisingly winner of the Best of Show trophy, was a voluptuous 1939 Delahaye 135 Roadster bodied by those most extravagant of pre-war Parisian coachbuilders, Figoni & Falaschi. Shipped to Bombay in '39 with an almost identical sister car by a Frenchman escaping the conflict in Europe, this sensational, aerodynamic showstopper remained in India when its owner left and has been in the same Maharaja's family ever since: the current prince swapped it with his older brother in 1958...for a used Willys Jeep.
Left: In its element: Best of Show-winning Delahaye 135 with HH Prince Dulip Singh
Right: Roadsters sheltering from the sun
The great and the good of Mumbai society were out in force: Cartier has been here since the 19th century and an invitation from them carries weight. Top Bollywoodnames arrived with an entourage which would put Hollywood to shame, including megastar Shah Rouk Khan (India's answer to Brad Pitt) and action hero Jacky Shroff (think James Bond meets Rambo) who entered his SS100 Jaguar, another car shipped new to India. But if you're a Western collector expecting a sudden influx of Indian buyers you'll need to be patient: not only are exports of historic cars banned from India, but they can't be imported either. Yet.
Left: Bollywood star Shah Rouk Khan toured the cars with his entourage
Right: Action hero Jacky Shroff and his wife admire a Mercedes-Benz 500K
India is a world away from the tranquil settings where vintage car events are usually played out, but it felt absolutely 'right'- somehow the slightly surreal ambience perfectly complimented the equally surreal cars, certainly not restored in the way the Europeans or Americans are used to seeing them, but all the more fascinating for it. I can't wait to return.
Note- Watch out for 'The Maharaja's Motor Car: The Story of Rolls-Royce in India', a documentary produced by Mark Stewart featuring many of India's hidden motoring treasures, due to be broadcast by the BBC in the spring.
Photographs courtesy: Cartier International and Auto India